Load/Inflation & Technical Info
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Dear Tire Doctor,
Our fleet is running Bridgestone M844F wide base radials in the steer position on our 10-wheel grain tanker. "Regular" steer tires need to be removed at 2/32" or 4/32". Is this the same for wide base radials? The 844F tires float big time on water and snow/slush, so when the tread is down to 4/32", we believe there is not sufficient depth to evacuate water from the footprint. view reply >>
How can I protect my tires from ultra-violet rays? I remember tires in the 1950s used to crack when exposed to the sun's rays – but today they seem to not be affected by sunlight. Please explain. view reply >>
With air pressure and tire temp sensors installed in aluminum wheels, what kind of temperatures should be observed while driving in 90- to 100-degree temperatures?
What air temperature reading would be too high? I am using the Smart Tire system. view reply >>
What are normal surface/tread temperature ranges for truck tires after they've been running for a while? view reply >>
I bought two Transport 19.00x20 tires about 1-1/2 years ago and had them mounted as steer tires on a restored 1965 GMC. The motor home has been driven just a few hundred miles when they began weather checking. The original tires are on the motor home and are in perfect shape. Why are 1965 casings in better shape than the new tires? view reply >> |
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Dear Tire Doctor,
Our fleet is running Bridgestone M844F wide base radials in the steer position on our 10-wheel grain tanker. Regular steer tires need to be removed at 2/32 or 4/32. Is this the same for wide base radials? The 844F tires float big time on water and snow/slush, so when the tread is down to 4/32, we believe there is not sufficient depth to evacuate water from the footprint.
Right now, the inner edge of the driver's side steer is at 2/32, with 84,818 miles on virgin casings; the passenger's side is 4/32. When they are driven in rainstorms, there is drastic steering loss due to floatation. Why?
Regards, Keith |
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Dear Keith,
Federal law requires that steer tires be removed when remaining tread depth reaches 4/32˝. This applies to “regular” steer tires as well as “wide base.”
However, regardless of the law, fleets need to make decisions on removal based on individual needs and experience. There are many fleets that will remove even “regular” steer tires with as many as 6/32˝ to 8/32˝ remaining tread depth, based on the needs and experience of their operation.
You are correct that a wide base tire may not evacuate water as efficiently as a “regular” steer tire. This can be due to several reasons: Water is dispersed from a tire’s path in a couple of ways. Much of the water is actually “pushed” out of the tire’s path as the tire makes contact with the road surface.
1. The wider the tire, the more water it has to push out of the way. Water that is not “pushed” is channeled through the tire’s tread grooves.
2. Most “over the road” steer tires have four “straight” grooves that allow water to travel a short distance through them, and with low turbulence.
3. On the other hand, a wide base M844F on/off-highway tire has three grooves instead of four. Since these types of tires need traction for use on all-wheel drive applications, the grooves are zigzagged with a fairly aggressive pattern. This zigzag pattern is a great help in pulling a vehicle through mud or snow, but less so with water. When evacuating water, the zigzag pattern requires the water travel farther to escape the footprint, which creates turbulence and slows the water’s flow.
4. And of course, as tires wear out, tread grooves become shallower, and cannot channel as much water volume as a deep groove. On/off-highway tires, such as the M844F, need to be very resistant to cuts, tears and stone drills and require a different rubber compound than “regular” tires. But, one of the trade offs for cut/chip resistance can be wet pavement traction.
You may want to remove steer tires prior to reaching the legal limit to overcome the problems you mention.
Your letter didn’t mention the type or load capacity of your steer axle. If your steer axle is not a driven axle, and has a 20,000 or less gross axle weight capacity, you may want to consider other alternatives to the on/off-highway wide base design, such as a 315/80R22.5 load range L.
We hope this has been helpful to you.
Best regards, Tire Doctor |
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Dear Tire Doctor,
How can I protect my tires from ultra-violet rays? I remember tires in the 1950s used to crack when exposed to the sun's rays – but today they seem to not be affected by sunlight. Please explain.
Sincerely, John |
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Dear John,
Well, over the years compounding has improved greatly, but the affects of the sun can still be damaging to tires. The rubber in tires is compounded with anti-oxidants and anti-ozone properties. As the tire goes through its revolutions, these chemicals work their way to the surface to help protect the tire. Tires that sit for long periods of time like RV tires are the most susceptible to ozone because they don't get many miles on them or a chance to work those anti-ozone chemicals to the surface.
It is best to keep your tires clean and not use tire dressings on large truck tires. Many tire dressings contain petroleum agents that are damaging to the rubber. Excessive cleaning can also strip the protective anti-ozone layer.
Hope this helps!
Best regards, Tire Doctor
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Dear Tire Doctor,
With air pressure and tire temp sensors installed in aluminum wheels, what kind of temperatures should be observed while driving in 90- to 100-degree temperatures?
What air temperature reading would be too high? I am using the Smart Tire system.
Thank you, Tom |
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Dear Tom,
Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance.
The answer to your question depends on a number of factors, and quite frankly, there is no hard and fast rule.
There are basically three types of tire temperature measurements:
- Probes inserted into the tire
- Contained air temperature (which your system uses)
- Tread (surface) temperature
A probe inserted into the tire - into either the belt edge or the bead area - the hottest points of the tire - is the most accurate method; however, it can only be performed under controlled conditions.
The contained air temperature method is the next most accurate, however, it is affected by the mounting system of the sensor - if the sensor is attached to the wheel, it will pick up heat from the wheel (which is picking up heat from the brake drum); and if it is attached to the tire interior, it will pick up heat from the casing.
Tread (surface) temperature is the least accurate; since measurement is normally performed by a hand-held unit, thus hampering repeatability, plus the question of where do you measure? The ribs will be cooler than the grooves, and the center will be cooler than the shoulders, etc.
So, while all this has so far done little to answer your question, we hope it has shed some light as to why we are being a bit reserved in our answer.
Now, what can I say to try to address your question?
While this is not set in stone: A very general rule of thumb is that a properly inflated/loaded tire, when up to operating temperature - one hour or more of operation - will typically run about 60 degrees F hotter than the ambient temperature. Anything above 200 degrees F could lead to tire degradation and you need to investigate for a problem.
Best regards, Tire Doctor
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Dear Tire Doctor,
What are normal surface/tread temperature ranges for truck tires after they've been running for a while?
Regards, Guy |
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Dear Guy,
Thank you for this opportunity to be of assistance.
While there are many factors, such as ambient temperature, load, speed, air pressure wheel position and tire pattern that will determine the tread temperature of a truck tire in normal operating conditions, we normally experience surface tread temperatures in the range of 150 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
Regards, Tire Doctor |
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Dear Tire Doctor,
I bought two Transport 19.00x20 tires about 1-1/2 years ago and had them mounted as steer tires on a restored 1965 GMC. The motor home has been driven just a few hundred miles when they began weather checking. The original tires are on the motor home and are in perfect shape. Why are 1965 casings in better shape than the new tires?
Regards, Chuck |
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Dear Chuck,
You will need to take the tires to an authorized Firestone dealer and have them inspected for any problems related to manufacturing and workmanship.
Best Regards, Tire Doctor |
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